Before I Die

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''Before I die, I want to see where I was born,'' my father announced last fall at home in Katonah, N.Y., as our family was celebrating Diwali, the Hindu New Year. With that, my parents and I began making plans to travel to Pakistan. My father and his entire extended family fled from there in 1947, when India gained independence and was partitioned into Muslim Pakistan and mostly Hindu India.

It was not a trip we had been expecting to take. My father's family left Lahore, where they had thought they would live their whole lives, after what the departing British had envisioned as an orderly exchange of minority populations exploded into a cycle of brutality and retaliation engulfing both new countries. They went first to Delhi, arriving with only what they could carry. My father, who was then 5 years old, remembers the tense train journey and the family's difficulties afterward as dispossessed refugees. As adults, my parents joined the Indian diaspora, raising me and my older brother in Sudan, then Abu Dhabi and finally New York. For more than a decade, we have all been Americans.

Until that day last November, I had rarely heard Dad speak about the partition. It was a subject I knew I should not bring up. But now, almost 60 years afterward, he had been captured by the zeitgeist of a generation: all over India and Pakistan, the partition survivors are seizing a last chance to reconcile their contradictory memories -- of terrorized displacement, but also of a rich shared culture that had to be left behind.

Peacemaking between India and Pakistan has become trendy. Chanting symbolic statements, movie stars and members of parliament are stepping across the border at the dusty guard-post village of Wagah. Since last month, Pakistan's national cricket team has been on tour across India, bringing along thousands of cricket-loving fans and being greeted by warm hospitality -- reciprocating Pakistani hospitality when India's team broke the ice by touring in Pakistan last year.

But can people taught for decades to regard one another as enemies really come together? We wondered, in this age of a war on terror, if it was worse to travel to Pakistan as Indians or as Americans.

Flying from Delhi to Lahore after a first stop in India, I was surprised to see the plane full of mostly older people, both Indian and Pakistani.

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