Surfing is considered as one of the most popular sport in the world nowadays, as it appears to me as a better alternative sport in addition to football and basketball. When I was eleven years old, the first thing I used to see when walking my dog next to the beach every morning is a man wearing a black suit lying on a white board who was hardly trying to catch a wave.
One day after finishing my school I went to the beach, then I saw the black suited man struggling with a wave, I was impressed but disappointed to see him persisting nor failing to catch that big wave. After watching the black suited man show who indeed failed to attain his objective, I went back to home with a lot of questions which made me curious about what was the name of
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My mother was in the kitchen cooking dinner when I suddenly came running and sweating asking her what was the black suited man lying on white board doing. She looked at me for a few seconds with a cute smile drawn on her face, and told me that the black suited man lying on white board is a surfer. I was quite surprised but happy after my mother’s illumination.
After that, I immediately asked my mom to help me join the surfing club in order to learn how to surf. It was both a great and difficult moment for me, I had the obligation to persevere in my studies and of course in the training. Learning how to ride a wave wasn’t an easy task for me. The first major task was to learn speed paddling which is an essential surfing skill. First, I had to paddle and at the same time to feel the speed of the wave. I also had to walk with my board until I waist in deep water. Secondly, I also had to keep my weight in the middle of the board for my equilibrium due to the body position importance in surfing. The thing is that when you are lying on a surfboard you should be able to paddle, feel the
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Hence, I had to know which foot I was naturally standing on while trying to catch a wave. In my case, I was more comfortable when I stood on the left foot which is mainly called natural stance. Once I mastered paddling and standing, my instructor told me that it was time for me to learn how to choose the angle on a wave. I felt happy because it didn’t take me a while to learn how to paddle and stand. Unfortunately, the learning process of choosing the angle on a wave was the most difficult and hard task I’ve ever had to complete. The real aim of choosing the angle on a wave wasn’t that easy because I had to ride the longest wave possible with the greatest amount of speed. The difficulty is in choosing the direction whether right or left depends on the quality and speed of the wave. The second struggle I’ve faced was in acquiring the talent of understanding and predicting the waves behavior, but in fact the way how I approach each wave depends on the type of the wave I like to ride the most. After several months of struggle, failure and injuries, I’ve finally earned the respect of my instructor after I won my very first surfing contest. I was in a state of intense happiness
According to Dr. Craig Harrison, “surfing is an athletic sport and requires surfers to execute complex manoeuvres in highly unstable and changing environments”. Seeing as it requires such movement, I need to prepare for the waves. Strength is a skill requirement, whether it be
Divine intervention, a miracle, or just mere luck, it was; I was just grateful to be alive. Death had seemed so near, but life pulled out the victory. I felt the grainy California sand against my skin. No movement seemed necessary; it was perfect enough just to breathe in the humid air that moments earlier I had so dearly craved, and nearly lost. Still, in shock, I spread out on the sand like a beached whale. My mother laid next to me in tears, muttering, “I thought I lost you.” She was not the only one who thought I would die; I was the
In “On a Wave” by Thad Ziolkowski there are some life changing/shaping lessons in his life. Thad realized at a young age that he loves to surf. At 11 years old Thad looks older than most 11 years old, which allows him to hang out with the “cool” kids after a surf session and smoke pot. Thad learns early on that pot and surfing would eventually grow on him as he became more induced into the surfer lifestyle.
Their is not nearly as much money in surfing, it is a sport of passion, they do not surf for money, they do not sell out, they surf because they love surfing; its a passion. Speaking on that, they tend to be much more intelligent with their investments, and spendings. Kelly Slater is a prime example, he never sold out, he is all about core, all about family. He is very intelligent, which is quite obvious based on his business ventures. The free enterprise system helped him make a name for himself and helped him stay "core". The free enterprise system helped him mak a name for himself, and that is why surfing will forever love Kelly
began to go surfing everyday either before or after school. Eventually his love for surfing grew
Kampton, Drew. The Way of the Surfer: Living it 1935 to Tomorrow. New York: Henry N. Adams
Britton, Veronica. "The Origins of Surfing." The Sport of Kings. N.p.. Web. 6 Dec 2013.
Some of which include Tom Curren and Kelly Slater, who were able to pioneer the use of the new high-performance short boards at J-Bay, where so many had failed before them. Often referred to as the best point break on Earth, Jeffreys Bay is a high-speed right that provides a lengthy tube ride sought after by many. If one is lucky, they could ride a wave for the entirety of Jeffreys Bay equaling out to about three-quarters of a mile, approximately a two-minute ride with how fast the wave rolls. Unfortunately, with all the positives that come with surf tourism, there also comes the question of what negative implications surfing and tourism can have on the environment in this foreign
As surfing becomes more popular, it takes away from the humble beginnings, which angers some of the originals. If surfing can become so popular that it branches out to many new ideas and activities then clearly it is a huge
So after a couple of more days of hanging out with my friends watching them learn new tricks more and more, it became appealing to me and it became something that I was willing to try myself. After that point I was determined to ask my mom to buy me a skateboard. She didn't like the idea too much because of the fact that skateboarders usually tend to fall a lot, but she told me she would see what she could do, which meant yes ironically. A
Nate noticed I was uncomfortable and asked me why, I replied “we’re going to be swimming in urine.” When we reached the pool I, not so eagerly, hopped in. I examined the pool area, there was a shallow end where the younger kids played, a deep end where my age group played, a place where the teachers swam, a place to lounge, a bar, everything was normal when out of the corner of my eye I noticed a wallaby.
Although technically beach volleyball isn’t the most dominant sport throughout the world, it is a sport available for all ages, it has progressively grown throughout the years, and has many different theories of its past. Several rules, people, and questions, have led to the discovery of more facts about beach volleyball from previous years. Uncovering each part of the history of beach volleyball shows more and more reasons why it is a tremendous sport to learn and research about.
Swimming is a very important physical activity. Swimming is a sport that exercises many muscles. Some muscles that swimming develops are: chest, back, hamstrings, shoulder, lat muscles. Anybody who would swim for a while would benefit from swimming. Swimming burns a lot of calories per hour. Depending on your weight, you can burn hundreds of calories. For example, if you weigh approximately 150 pounds, you can burn up to 700 calories. If I was required to swim three days a week, i could access a pool at a local gym. Most gyms have a pool for the members of the gym.
When I was 5 years old, Dad woke me up one morning and informed me that he was finally going to teach me how to surf. I was ecstatic. I used to watch my brothers in envy as I crouched on the damp sand with my head between my hands resting on my knees, sulking at the fact that I wasn’t allowed to surf until I was 5.
This lukewarm water was deceiving though, because it only seemed lukewarm due to the drop in temperature and misty rainfall. The waves were rushing toward me like a bull to a matador’s red flag. My mouth tasted as if someone dumped a whole shaker of salt on my tongue. The wave pushed my further and faster as it I could feel the wave breaking on my body and there I was back at the shallows again floating in with the white wash and was ready for another wave. As I stood back up and ran back out to the deep water I saw one of my surfing mates catch the most perfect barrel it was rad. It would have been a great snap shot. I caught another wave, this one was even bigger. The thrust of the wave was twisting my body and I was pulled towards the sea