Shopping in the Bazaars of Delhi

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Shopping in the Bazaars of Delhi

What do you sell , O Ye Merchants?

Richly your wares are displayed.

Turbans of Crimson and silver,

Tunics of purple brocade,

Mirrors with panels of amber,

Daggers with handles of jade.

Naidu, Sarojini. The Sceptred Flute. New York , 1928

Last summer, on a balmy morning, I was meandering aimlessly around the noisy lanes of Old Delhi’s Gandhi boulevard, famed for its narrow winding alleys and its Saturday morning flea bazaar. It was a typical market scene, perhaps from a medieval town in Central Asia. The bazaar was teeming with the commercial cacophony of confusing voices, horns, whistles, shouts, clangs, and the jingle-jangle of coins and numerous other unidentifiable noises. Bicycles were whizzing past pedestrians at feverish speeds, rickshaws were lugging the affluent around their daily chores, and carts filled to the brim were transporting fresh supplies to eager merchants.

The vendors were yelling “Fresh Nagpur oranges, two for the price of one,” “Hand woven shawls from Kashmir, that can pass through the eye of a needle,” “Silk saris from Mysore, fit for a princess.” I was ambling along, when something in the inappropriately named and garishly decorated display window of the “Istanbul Rug Emporium” caught my eye. It was a green colored, nine-by-nine feet wool rug with a medallion motif, beige borders, delicately ornamented with tassels. Inappropriately named indeed, for the putative emporium was a marginally augmented shack, with rickety shelves, a solitary wooden bench and a tarpaulin sheet for a roof. The entire inventory of rugs amounted to less than the bridal trousseau of a wealthy merchant’s daughter.

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...e I ran a few errands in the market. This was it ! The ultimate temptation - even Moses would have yielded to this.

It was not long. I was at a nearby shoe shop trying to outdo Imelda Marcos with my own private collection, when Ali, the artful boy, from the Istanbul Emporium rode up on a five-speed bicycle. He handed me the rug, neatly rolled up and tightly packed and said, “Baba sends his regards with his card .” I saw the business card and I knew I had been fooled – I had been outwitted, out classed and out haggled by the seller. The card listed numerous such Istanbul Emporiums all over Pakistan and India. Apparently the rickety exterior, the false modesty was just a facade to lure unsuspecting shoppers like me, who thought they could outwit these shrewd merchants.

Bibliography:

Naidu, Sarojini. The Sceptred Flute. New York , 1928

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