How Does Fashion Relate To Japanese Fashion

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The western convention of not only the construction and techniques but

also the normative concepts of fashion were challenged by those Japanese

designers. By breaking the western convention of fashion, they suggested

the new style and new definition of aesthetics to the whole world. Since

their debut, the view of fashion was going the very opposed way from the

conventional western fashion. Some westerns may took it as “an offense

not only against their aesthetic but also against their existing

arrangement of ranked statuses, a stratification system in fashion or

the hegemony of the Western system” (Yuniya Kawamura, 2004, p136).
For instance, those designs by Kawakubo, Miyake and Yamamoto were known

for being gender neutral or unisex. Clothing at that time was “a major

symbol of gender that allows other people to immediately discover the

individual’s biological sex” (Yuniya Kawamura, 2004, p132). These

three Japanese designers challenged the normative gender specificity

characteristic of western clothes. As yamamoto talks about his idea

“men’s clothing is more pure in design. It’s simpler and has no

decoration. Women want that. When I started designing, I wanted to make

men’s clothes for women. But there were no buyers for it. Now, there

are” (Duka, 1983, p63).
The notion of “conceptual” aesthetics also led to many other changes

in the established western fashion system. The Japanese designers broke

away the historical paradigm of using conventional models replacing

glamour with uniqueness and individuality. In Miyake’s Beautiful Ladies

collection (1995), he used six models aged between sixty-two and

ninety-two. Miyake also set the precedent for displaying fashion

exhibitions in major ...

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... Yamamoto

and Kawakubo” (Bonnie English, 2011, p130).
They widen the boundaries of fashion, reshaped the symmetry of clothes,

introduced monochromatic clothes, and let wrapped garments respond to

the body’s shape and movement. They destroyed all previous definition

of clothing and fashion. Their concepts were “undoubtedly different,

totally original and definitely new compared to the rules of fashion set

by legitimate, serious Western designers such as Chanel, Dior and Saint

Laurent” (Yuniya Kawamura, 2004, p148). Fashion historian McDowell

argued that the Japanese designers “made few concessions to traditional

western ideals of dress, chic or beauty” and their clothes were “as

much a statement of philosophy as they were of design” (Mcdowell, 1987,

p 41). And according to Koda (Martin and Koda, 1994), “a new form of

anti-fashion had emerged”.

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