An Overview of Surfing: Past to Present

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Surfing is the act of someone paddling out into the ocean, catching a wave on a surfboard, standing up, and riding the length of that giant whitecap. Some people say it is the best feeling anyone can experience and always has been. The recreation of surfing has been around ever since the mid-eighteenth century. Now, it is not only a hobby for some people, but an extreme professional sport.

Originating in Hawaii during the mid-eighteen hundreds, surfing has remained a way of life for most Hawaiians. Everyone from men to women, royalty to commoners, took part in the pastime. Early surfboards were made of solid wood, eight to ten feet long, two feet wide, three inches thick, and around 100 pounds. (Encyclopedia Britannica: Surfing History). Early boards had no fins on the back underside of the board, making it very difficult to steer the plank. Most people just turned their board toward the shore and made no attempt to maneuver along the length of the wave wall. It wasn’t all fun and games for the people of Hawaii though.

According to The Geographic Adventures of Captain Cook, Captain James Cook, a British explorer, on his third expedition to find a northwest passage through Europe and Asia across the top of North America, mistakenly came across the Sandwich Islands, or Hawaii, in 1778. He remained there until he was killed by natives in 1779, when he attempted to kidnap the Hawaiian chief so as to force the people to return a boat that was stolen. During his time on the islands though, he watched the people surfing and wrote in one of his many exploration journals about a man he observed. In the passage he wrote, “I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by...

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...cyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Web. 11 Nov. 2011.

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"surfing." Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online School Edition.

Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Web. 11 Nov. 2011.

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"surfing." Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online School Edition.

Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Web. 11 Nov. 2011.

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"surfing." Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online School Edition.

Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Web. 11 Nov. 2011.

.

"surfing." Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online School Edition.

Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Web. 11 Nov. 2011.

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