Leg Two of the Grand Tour: Beauharnois Locks, Montreal & the Ottawa River

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Rain and windy conditions were setting us up to savor the good weather when and if it came. In keeping with Dad’s why-start-early program, we made it three-for-three on afternoon starts. We had another pair of locks at Beauharnois. Like the Eisenhower Locks, this is another austere setting with towers and high voltage wires adding to the forbidding atmosphere. It took us more than three hours to get back on our way after waiting for a tanker to come through in the opposite direction. We shared the second lock with a lightly loaded ship named Christine. It was like having a pointed four-story, floating college dormitory behind us. When we left the lock the ship passed us like they were the pleasure boat and we were the freighter. I recall Deb saying, “Grab the loose dishes. We’re going to get pitched around.” A ship of that size throws an enormous wake when going faster than ten-to-twelve knots.
We reached Montreal at 7:30 that evening and secured dockage at the Royal St Lawrence Yacht Club. We took a cab to dinner at the Airport Hilton. I have very little recollection of that stop or the setting. It did, however, mark the completion of the first leg of our four-leg journey.
Dad was continuing to man the helm as we ran our afternoon-start streak to four in a row. Among the nice features of getting on the water early is that conditions are often calmer and more boating-friendly early in the day. As the day progresses winds frequently pick up and the seas grow rougher. This was exactly the case this day as we crossed Lake St Louis in rough seas accompanied by high winds.
We had added gas and water at the Montreal stop, and I see from Deb’s log entry that we stopped at St-Anne-de-Bellevue after crossing Lake St Louis. There is a ca...

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...places we stopped with the Consuelo because she was an elegant boat and like a classy lady, people often go out of their way to be accommodative.
We made it to Ottawa at seven that evening. We tied up at the Skiff Club dock adjacent to the northern terminus of the Rideau Canal Waterway. The first eight locks climbed like stairs to the level of the city, but we were too late to lock through that day and too tired as well.
Dad, Deb and I hiked up the steep hill to the venerable old hotel, Chateau Laurier, to be sure it was okay to dock for the night where we had tied up. We also made dinner reservations at Madame Burger’s across the Ottawa River in the town named Hull that has since been renamed Gatineau. A cab drove down to the Consuelo and took us to dinner. We stopped into the Chateau Laurier for a nightcap before retiring to the boat for some much needed sleep.

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