He could feel the crisp morning air trace his lips with its salty scent, as he looked toward the waves curling, and rushing together in an endless frolic, folding in on each other to speed toward the shore, giving it a gentle kiss before the tide drew it out again. He was rising and falling with the sea's breath, waltzing slowly with the calm hills of sapphire waiting for the next swell to be born. The beach waved at his back, as he faced the boundless azure, a lone buoy among the blue. He had paddled deep into its embrace, sitting on the side, waiting for the swell to stretch its arms. To entertain himself, his eyes drew toward the sky, the refreshing electric blue was a blushing twin of the sea below, as the sun slowly paddled its way past …show more content…
A confused, startled expression, flickered across his features, as his eyes plummeted down toward the waves, just in time, to watch as they ascend in size. He leaned forward pressing his chest onto the front of the board, and lifted his feet onto the back, until he was lying flat on his chest, and began to paddle. His hands sliced through the water, with each long, fast paced, stroke, his adrenaline began to burn through his chest. He had scheduled the opening perfectly, turning into where the wave ahead of him ended, and the wave behind him began to build. He felt the wave rise under him, and he began to paddle faster. It looked like he was trying to out paddle the undeniable force of nature, but he wasn't. He was positioning himself to drop in on the wave, he felt the nose of his board tilt downward. The moment before you descends a wave has been described in newspapers, magazines, smelt into trophies, written in …show more content…
He reached the top of the wave, and used his board like a giant knife, turning deeply into the wave, and using the force of the turn to sink the rail (side) of his board into the water, spraying anyone that could have been behind the wave, from the power. He felt the water hit him like rain drops, and it made a smile form on his face. He proceeds to carve up the wave, lost in the river of adrenaline. He felt himself falling into the world of the wave, as the wave spread out above him connecting with the water on the other side, creating a tube. He watched the sky through the water filter, the water showering him with cool drops, and hugging him with warm air. His eyes re-focused onto the unfiltered light at the end of the barrel, he turned his head toward the face of the wave, his reflection rippling across the flow. He saw the sadness in his eyes, not for the fact the ride was almost over, but he felt something so unexplainable, something more than just sadness swell inside him. It was needed. But before he could illiterate on his thoughts, he felt the morning air, ice against his wet skin, and his focus returned to his footing, bending his knees one last time, he leaned slightly inward, sending the board upward toward the Crest of the wave. He took one last glance at the curve of
Whoosh! A phenomenal wave flew over my head, pulling me down with it. Next to me, to pull me back up was my brother, Matthew. Whoosh! Then came another wave, dragging me down again. My brother pulled me up once more. At that point I could see the haven-like shoreline becoming more distant; however, I was only ten at the time and did not understand why I was being pulled further away from it. I did not realize it at the moment, but a riptide had caught me.
“I had been born into a raging ocean where I swam relentlessly, flailing my arms in hope of rescue, of reaching a shoreline I never sighted. Never solid ground beneath me, never a resting place. I had lived with only the desperate hope to stay afloat; that and nothing more. But when at last I wrote my first words in the page, I felt an island rising beneath my feet like the back of a whale”.
into the lake, would not wait for anyone’s Answer, the heaving water covered him Over.” (Finely
Marc lowered the boat as fast as he could, trying to get away from the pushy sunburned group of men approaching. When the lifeboat hit the water my heart sunk, there was nothing around us. I had no idea where I was, let alone where the nearest body of land was located. Looking back, I think Marc miscalculated the distance between the lifeboat and large cruise ship. He jumped towards the lifeboat, but upon his landing, a wave swept me and the boat further
...n. When a sting ray swims past you or a jelly fish is there in the water beside you, again there is a realization of just how much is going on under the water that is not seen. The waves can make you feel so insignificant when you get tumbled head over heels in the water and you have no control over yourself. Only after experiencing this can the powerfulness of the waves be realized.
Jeff glanced back at his , he didn’t even realized he was paddeling, at all, this explained the trueness e felt in his arms, slowing his speed he . He hasn’t wanted o go caneoung but James had wanted to go and he could never say no to the smaller boy, despite shat Alexander thought e wasn’t compleltly heartless. Focusing mostly on his breatibg and on keeping his stroke slow and string he felt himself relaxed, this was going well, he had never understood his uneasyness in the water, he
The first thing to see, looking away over the water, was a kind of dull line - that was the woods on t'other side; you couldn't make nothing else out; then a pale place in the sky; then more paleness spreading around; then the river softened up away off, and warn't black any more, but gray; you could see little dark spots drifting along ever so far away-trading-scows, and such things; and long black streaks-rafts ... and by and by you could see a streak on the water which you know by the look of the streak that there's a snag there in a swift current which breaks on it and makes that streak look that way; and you see the mist curl up off of the water, and the east reddens up.
There is a guy from Hawaii that I know. Every day, he wakes up, straps his surfboards to the racks on top of his car, drives his car from a town called Ewa, across the island of Oahu, to a little beach known as Ala Moana Beach Park. He does all of this even before the sun comes up. He spends a few minutes just looking at the ocean, watching and surveying the waves and how they break. As soon as the sun makes its first peek over the horizon, he grabs a board, waxes it up, and jumps in the water. He then paddles his board through what many people call a journey: two hundred yards of dark cold water, blistering currents, and waves pushing back against each stroke made to push forward. He makes this journey to get to a point right past where all the waves break, to a point called the line-up. It’s here, where he waits for a wave that he catches back towards the shore, only to make the journey back through all the cold harsh currents and waves again. He catches a few waves, and then catches one all the way back to shore, where he showers, gets dressed and then goes off to work.
As I slowly strolled toward the old, rickety looking ladder, my heart literally began to beat out of my chest. The ocean was settled that day, but my body mind, and heart, were not so settled. The rest of the people on board began to get impatient with me. I was truly terrified, but it was time to conquer my biggest fear.
I could tell he was smiling. The cool breeze bore with it the intoxicating fragrance of wild flowers and made the boat sway in its harmony. I lay on my back, closed my eyes and listened. The ripples that formed on the water, the little waves that swept against the oars, his breaths, my heartbeat -- I listened, for that was all I could do.
Away from the immense sea, white foams from the waves gather gently onto the golden shore. Now, half of a glowing, radiant light looms across the water 's horizon. The sea turns blood-red and darkness creeps up like a thief. The necklace that once reflected its passionate energy of fury moments ago now resembled a mere costume jewellery. Perhaps the loss of the necklace’s elegance and sophistication was the reason to why it was disregarded. Pity the owner did not see the necklace radiating its splendour at its peak. Anyhow, the nightfall creates a sensation of joy and tranquillity in me. Every sight and sound stimulates a sense of composure and serenity; and the effect is heightened by the absence of the noisy bustle of our daily work, only to be exposed to the never-ending music of the waves, and to breathe the fresh air instead of the stale atmosphere of classrooms. It is not easy to describe the effect of this sight; it can only be strangely deciphered in my mind. It is however, a very tangible and distinct emotion, though its allure really depends upon the reality of the world from a further point of view, away from the definite predictabilities of the world, all in which an instant becomes like a translucent drape which almost consents me to catch a glimpse of a ideal and more breath-taking reality. The worldly desires, expectations, worries, schemes, suddenly cease to exist. It is as though all of
Boat trips were always a fun time in my family, but they soon proved to be a dangerous journey, resulting in the injury of my brother. My dad, his friend, and my brother, Dwight, went on a fishing trip offshore. It was a normal trip that we frequently journeyed, but that day was different. The trip offshore takes hours to get to the best spot for fishing. On the ride offshore, Dwight was standing at the head of the boat, enjoying the particularly turbulent ride. He jumped to every bump, excited for the long day of fishing. My brother continued to leap with every wave, unaware of how rough the waters were. For the final time, my brother jumped with a giant wave. Suddenly he soared ten feet into the air. He then plummeted onto the solid surfa...
As we started to slowly drift down the river, seemingly inch by inch, I began to have feelings of disappointment. I had been planning on a more hazardous and fast-paced ride. The water was crystal clear and almost as flat as a sheet of glass. There was only a very mild current and being as impatient as I was, it appeared to me that we weren’t even moving.
This lukewarm water was deceiving though, because it only seemed lukewarm due to the drop in temperature and misty rainfall. The waves were rushing toward me like a bull to a matador’s red flag. My mouth tasted as if someone dumped a whole shaker of salt on my tongue. The wave pushed my further and faster as it I could feel the wave breaking on my body and there I was back at the shallows again floating in with the white wash and was ready for another wave. As I stood back up and ran back out to the deep water I saw one of my surfing mates catch the most perfect barrel it was rad. It would have been a great snap shot. I caught another wave, this one was even bigger. The thrust of the wave was twisting my body and I was pulled towards the sea
My toes burrowed into the damp sand and I was relieved to realize that the water was warmer than I had expected. As I stood there and breathed in, deeply, the moist salty air, allowing my heart to fill with the vigor of the ocean and releasing the thoughts of the boy from my past with each exhale, a ball hit my feet and a man ran to get it as his friend yelled “you’re welcome!.” Were they trying to get my attention? I thought as I simply walked away avoiding eye contact with the man who collected the ball. I wandered along the water’s border allowing the water to cooly kiss my feet. the water hit my feet. I smiled as I looked at all of the young surfers attempting to catch the two foot waves. I amused myself by pondering what their future would look like and if I was witnessing the start of a surfing legend. I envied their potential, the years they would have to master their art to acquire their dreams, whatever they may be.