Growing Squash

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The wildly diverse members of the Cucurbitaceae family come from every corner of the world, but they have been in Southern gardens so long they feel like natives. They have 7 interbreeding and ever-changing species in 3 genera. The genus Cucurbita includes four of them. Cucurbita pepo is the pumpkin, which we know in many variations — the pumpkin, summer squash, cushaws, and gourds. C. maxima, C. mixta, and C. moshuta are true squash, although we know them as winter squash. The genus Cucumis includes cucumbers (C. sativus) and melons (C. melo). And the genus Citrullus includes only one species, C. vulgaris, the watermelon. Except for summer squash, all members of this family grow on vines. And they are so similar that, with just a few tweaks, they can be treated as a single vegetable. This family is thoroughly intolerant of frost; it requires rich, moist, light, warm, and clean soil. It’s members are plagued by beetles, squash borers, and soil-borne diseases that can be defeated only with good hygiene. As a defense against beetles, till the bed in the fall and again, if possible, after your first freeze, and rotate, rotate, rotate. If you find beetles on your plants, pick them off by hand; if you find clusters of red eggs on the undersides of leaves or just below the soil surface, rub them off. These clusters are squash borers, your nemesis. They are wasp eggs that are deposited in June and soon hatch as small white grubs that burrow into your plant stems and suck them fatally dry. I am still looking for an answer to this problem, but this year I intend to construct net tents over my plants to keep the wasps out. I will use wide-weave bridal netting on a tubular frame in hopes of allowing enough light and a... ... middle of paper ... ...inter squash on the vine until they are fully mature; they will not continue to ripen after they have been picked and although a light frost may shorten the fruit’s shelf life, it can enhance its taste. You will get the biggest yield by picking any ripe fruit before frost and leaving the rest in the field, covered with a cloth to protect it against the cold, until it is ripe. Store what you pick in a cool, dry place. Harvest winter squash only in dry weather. Cut the vine with a sharp knife, leaving 3 inches of stem attached to the fruit, and take care not to damage the fruit, since that would invite rot. Dry the squash in the sun until the stem has shriveled and turned grey; then put it in a 45° room with 60% humidity. It should keep for 5 months. The only exception is acorn squash. Do not dry it in the sun; store it a little cooler and a little damper.

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