Sun, Sand, Sea, Magic.
Adrenaline pulses through your body as you move in harmony with the raging sea.
The sunlight reflecting off the surfaces of the water, as you glide effortlessly on your surfboard. The frothy cool foam of the sea, licking at your heels as you surf down the face of the swelling wave. The thrill and excitement of surfing isn’t easily described in words, its something to be experienced. With the proper equipment and learning some simple techniques anyone can learn to surf.
Choosing a proper surfboard can be a daunting task. They come in such a wide variety of shapes and sizes it can be overwhelming. Basically there are three standard shapes and variations on these: short board, gun, and long board. The short boards are designed for performance and speed. Short boards range from five feet to seven feet in length. The gun surfboards are your mid-sized shapes ranging in height from seven feet up to nine feet. Easier to learn on because of the extra length, yet more cumbersome to turn and maneuver. The long boards are nine feet and longer. Long boards are slow and smooth, catching waves easier because of the longer planning ability. Long boards are the slowest to maneuver and handle quickly, because of their larger more cumbersome size. There are also different fin configurations to consider. A single fin is easier to control but lacks much maneuverability. A tri-fin design is harder to control but can really shred through the water, and you need more ability as a rider to see its potential. Typically you want a board at least a foot taller than you, but it’s easier to learn on a longer board. A wider and thicker board is also easier to paddle on, so grab a gun sized board or taller with a single fin to start and soon you will want to move to a faster short board to really carve up the water!
Some additional items will make surfing more comfortable. A riding leash is a bungee like cord that attaches to the surfboard and has a Velcro strap for your ankle. Generally around six feet long this makes it easier to retrieve your board in an eventual wipeout. Wetsuits for various weather conditions are the full suit and short suit. They keep you warm and help against minor abrasions. Now we have the proper gear lets do some practice.
bum at heart, but there is nothing that can compare to the sound of the waves crashing against the
Wear many removable layers of clothing, and always be sure the outermost layer is 100% waterproof. Also, always wear goggles. Visibility and eye protection is very important.
First, you will need a snowboard. Make sure that you also buy the boots and bindings, if they do not come in the same package with the board. You will need to dress in a comfortable, loose-fitting outfit to allow flexibility. Never disregard your safety. Gloves, goggles, helmet, and wrist guards are a must, especially for beginners.
Surfing has come a long way since it was first conceived (roughly 1500 years ago). From the Polynesian “watermen” and Hawaiian Kings, to the European takeover in Hawaii and surfing's American debut in the early twentieth century and all the way through present day, surfing has had a rich history. Over the decades, surfing has fit in to a number of roles in society, but whether we surfers are seen as beach-bums or heroes (as of late), we still surf only because we love it, because the ocean’s calls us, because nothing else on this planet can create the sensation felt by riding a wave.
You may want to get yourself involved in intense kayaking. There is no problem is this, provided you are confident and able to paddle through fast-moving water. Ahead of getting into this, it is necessary that you involve yourself in some learning about kayaking in fast-moving waters. As soon as you are through with this,
Britton, Veronica. "The Origins of Surfing." The Sport of Kings. N.p.. Web. 6 Dec 2013.
Surfing today has become a billion dollar enterprise. Many leading companies will sponsor huge events. Today there are many types of surfing boogie boarding and windsurfing are among them. Now thousands of boards and wetsuits are made a year. Vs the old long wooden boards people today ride boards 6 to 7 feet long. Today millions of people surf every year. Now people will surf for a living making money off of endorsement deals. With the addition of tow in surfing now surfers can ride some of the biggest waves on the
I wade in the water about forty yards out of the beach. I survey the waves impelling towards my slim body frame. My lanky legs hover beneath my board, and I feel the chilled ocean water from my knees down. As my
There are many reasons the ocean is my favorite place to be. These range from the atmosphere and people at the ocean to the scenery experienced while there. It is a time for me to be free from all the hassles in my life and to "get away from it all," even if it is only for a week. The ocean should be enjoyed for what it is. Loud noise and all the hustle and bustle of boardwalks should not exploit it. At the ocean I can feel at home and at peace because it is my favorite place to be.
Surfing has been a past time for many people on coasts, such as in California, Hawaii, and especially islanders—such as Samoan and Polynesian islands. When surfing was introduced to the Hawaiian, Samoan, and Polynesian islands it became an integrated part of their culture and lives. Surfing is now a hearty past time for many islanders and it’s become a very popular spot in island areas and the coasts.
Importantly, paddling offers a great reason to enjoy the lakes or rivers and to appreciate its value. Before heading out, certain things should be considered and must be prepared for both professionals and beginners.
The lonely empty silence is overpowered by a wall of foam rushing towards me. Wheels of sand are churning beneath my feet. My golden locks are flattened and hunched over my head to form a thick curtain over my eyes. Light ripples are printed against my olive stomach as the sun beams through the oceans unsteadiness. I look below me and can’t see where the sand bank ends; I look above and realize it’s a long way to the top. Don’t panic Kate, you’ll get through this. I try to paddle to the top but am halted by something severely weighing me down- My board. That’s what got me in this mess in the first place. I can see the floral pattern peeping through the sand that is rapidly crawling over it. I quickly rip apart the Velcro of my foot strap and watch my board float to the surface effortlessly as I attempt climbing through the water to reach the surface. The fin of my board becomes more visible to me as I ascend. Finally, an alleviating sensation blasts through my mouth.
This lukewarm water was deceiving though, because it only seemed lukewarm due to the drop in temperature and misty rainfall. The waves were rushing toward me like a bull to a matador’s red flag. My mouth tasted as if someone dumped a whole shaker of salt on my tongue. The wave pushed my further and faster as it I could feel the wave breaking on my body and there I was back at the shallows again floating in with the white wash and was ready for another wave. As I stood back up and ran back out to the deep water I saw one of my surfing mates catch the most perfect barrel it was rad. It would have been a great snap shot. I caught another wave, this one was even bigger. The thrust of the wave was twisting my body and I was pulled towards the sea
Thinking of surfing brought me to think about my brother who is a surfer. I reminisced about the times he and I had sat quietly in the ocean waiting to see that perfect bump in the horizon. He taught me a great lesson in surfing; you don’t always have to pick the first option because there are more opportunities to