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Methods of Long Term Underground Storage

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METHODS OF LONG TERM UNDERGROUND STORAGE BY WILLIAM N, NELSON AND STANLEY A. CATLOW

Reprinted by the permission of:
MAGNUM ENTERPRISES
P. O. Box 621
Ephrata, Washington 98823

INDEX

Chapter 1....................................4
Above Ground ...........................4

Chapter 2....................................5
Below Ground ...........................5
A. Ammo Cans.......................5
B. Plastic Bags ...................6
C. PVC Pipe........................6

Chapter 3....................................8
A. Cosmoline ......................8
B. Plastic Coatings................8

Chapter 4....................................12
A. Indicating and Non-indicating...12
B. Vapor Phase Inhibitor . . . ....14

Chapter 5....................................16
Location of Burial Site,
placement underground .............16

Chapter 6....................................17
Marking the containers .................17

Appendix ....................................19
A. Ammo Cans ......................19
B. Cosmoline & Plastic Coatings ...19
C. C-Rations.......................20
D. Desiccators ....................21
E. Fiberglass Cloth ...............22
F. Freon...........................22
G. Plastic Bags & Containers.......23
H. Plastic Beads...................23
I. Publications ...................23
J. PVC Pipe........................24


PREFACE

The purpose of this book is to give the reader some basic ideas on how to prepare various materials (coins, firearms, etc.) for long term storage below ground. The reason for this book is, or should be, obvious. Namely the political and social climate in this country and the rest of the world. History has shown that during major social or natural upheavals the people who survived were those who prepared for the worst. During these times the most valuable items were: Food, firearms, and a valuable medium of exchange. (i. e., gold, silver, precious gems, etc.) The authors considered this book just the first edition. We urge our readers to send us any criticism, comments, suggestions or different methods which they have tried and found successful, so that we may pass it on in the next edition. Some of the prices of the materials which we quote are based on the current costs in our area. (Eastern Washington state) They may vary according to location, inflation, shipping, etc., their main purpose is just to give th...


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...d does not have to be heated. It is also as easy to remove as Plastisol. One problem we had was in finding sources of small quantities of this material. Dipseal Plastics will not sell in small quantities and a supplier
in our area will only sell it in 25 pound lots at $1.25 per pound.

The third commercial plastic is called Plas-ti-Dip, made by Plasti-Dip International, 1458 West Country Road C, St. Paul, Minn. 55113. This product was designed for coating tool handles and is
very easy to use. PlastiDip does not require heat for curing, it needs only be air dried. The part or tool should be cleaned, then immersed slowly (1 inch every five seconds) into the plastic and then withdrawn slowly and allowed to air dry. If a second coat is required, the first coat should be allowed to dry for at least 25 minutes before the second coat is applied. It can be used on wood, however it would not be a good idea to use it on anything with a finish or
checkering as it may discolor the wood and be hard to remove from the checkering.

A homemade plastic coating is probably the easiest to use. Acrylic plastic such as Plexiglas or styrene plastic from plastic models can be dissolved in acetone to mal


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