Surfing is the sport of riding a surfboard toward the shore on the crest of a wave. It is an amazing sport to learn and it gives the rider a hell of an adrenaline rush!! There are three major phases of surfing – paddling, push up and the standing position. This report will give you a full understanding of the correct techniques to use while surfing and it also describes the basic structure and function of the muscular-skeletal and cardio-respiratory systems of the human body. It will also describe the many different energy systems and how they change when surfing.
Getting Started
Before catching the massive waves it’s a good idea to practise getting used to surfing on the white wash. The white wash is where the waves break and it is the easiest wave to catch. Strap your leg rope (or leash) to your ankle, and hold the slack so you don’t trip as you enter the water.
The first phase in surfing is paddling. To start off you will need to learn how to successfully catch a wave. It’s a good idea to watch other surfers get into the water, and observe the route they use to paddle out.
To paddle, you first lie on your surfboard – to do this body weight needs to be positioned along the centre of the board. Your feet need to be raised slightly off the end of the board. Your body needs to be far enough back to keep the nose of the board about a couple of inches out of the water. If you are too far forward on the board you will notice that the nose of the board keeps dipping underwater making it very difficult to paddle. It will take time to find the most comfortable position.
Try to be balanced on the board and paddle at almost the speed of the incoming wave. Raise your head when you paddle with arms bent at the elbow approximately ninety degrees. Reach out with one arm at a time, cupping your hands to make a scoop, stroking your way through the water. You don’t have to dig your arms too deep. Keep the movement of your arms nice and smooth, pulling the board through the water and finish your paddle by flicking your wrist as your arms moves past your hip.
Pictures (Above and right): The position of different surfers while paddling
*Wipeout- to fall off your board, usually being engulfed by the wave afterward and thrown around the ocean floor by the swells.
Hold the stick properly. Place one hand on the top of the hockey stick and the other hand in the middle of the stick. Try switching hands and positions to discover which position is most comfortable.
Gambling in the form of traditional games has always been a part of many American Indian tribes’ cultures. Though many tribes began using other forms of gambling, this continues today. However, the use of gaming to obtain profit was not as successful until the late 1970's and early 1980's. It quickly grew from an industry that made $100 million annually to over $22 billion annually. Gambling started with simple games such as bingo and continued to grow until the states the tribes were in eventually took notice. Additionally, because of the rapid growth of the gambling industry some tribes used this to better their ailing economies. As more states started to take notice of the increased amount of income the tribes were bringing in, the states’ governments began questioning whether it was a legitimate operation or not. In response states began lobbying for the Federal Government to regulate Indian gaming. The states wanting to both counter infiltration by organized crime and tax income gained by Indian gaming. Tribes fought the states to maintain tribal sovereignty and to protect gaming revenues for further economic development and support. Congress responded with the set of compromises which then evolved into what is now known as the Indian Gaming Regulatory Act of 1988. The Act separated Indian gaming into three separate classes with a different regulatory scheme for each.
Britton, Veronica. "The Origins of Surfing." The Sport of Kings. N.p.. Web. 6 Dec 2013.
To do a front dive a diver pushes his hips upward just slightly as he leaves the board. After he had begun to go up into the air, he throws his arms downward just enough to make is upper torso rotate around his hips. At the peak of the dive, the diver tightens his stomach muscles and pulls his legs up towards the sky, leaving his body in a perfect upside-down position to enter the water head-first.
Those who do typically like to get the most out of their money and take advantage of all the opportunities on the islands. Surfing is popular lifestyle that society pairs with Hawaii. The near-shore waters that range from deep blue to turquoise are often tempting; however, many vacationers do not understand how dangerous Hawaii’s currents can be. Since Hawaii is located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, the ocean bottom tends to drop off quickly, which causes big and powerful waves. Annually, sixty people drown or are seriously injured by the rip currents of the treacherous waters. Earlier this year, famous singer Britney Spears vacationed on the famous beaches of Hawaii. In a recent interview, so revealed she almost drowned at sea. “I went out and I thought it was like a wave pool, and I thought, ‘This is so nice and refreshing,’ but the thing I didn’t think about is when you come back the waves really come in strong.” Spears got sucked in and kept getting pulled back to sea. She was under for about five minutes before one of her security guards noticed she was struggling and was able to rescue her (Bacardi). A majority of the beaches fly a red warning flag year-round to warn beachgoers of the hazards. If one does find himself trapped in the middle of a current, it’s important to remain calm. Do not try to swim against the tide. Instead, swim parallel to the beach until the current
Wakeboarding is a water sport in which a rider holds onto a rope attached to a moving boat and is able to surf, jump, and twist along the water. Wakeboarding can be very challenging as a beginner, but once mastered it can also be a very exhilarating experience. Although it may look easy as a spectator, wakeboarding is not a walk in the park, and many beginners experience anxiety while first learning the sport. However, people can overcome this fear through determination and instruction from an experienced wakeboarder.
Rowing, the thrilling team sport that gets you physically/mentally fit and provides you a second family with many friends. In the sport of crew, teamwork is very crucial. With that teamwork comes new friends and wonderful coaches. Even though you might think this is a physical sport it is also considered to be a mental sport. Just think, baseball has nine innings, approximately two hours of play and a lot can change in that period of time for a loss or win. With crew you only have about seven minutes to get your eight man boat down a two thousand-meter racecourse to receive a medal or win. If you have the lead it is mentally hard to come back and win for the rowers behind the top three boats.
"People either love it, or they hate it," Fred proclaimed again, for the umpteenth time. His reddish face almost glowed against the gray sky. The combination of giddy grin, round cheeks, and fine, yellow, tousled hair yielded a face far too boyish for a man in his mid-fifties. But the always-present twinkle in Fred's eye was ever so slightly diminished today, and I knew why: he feared that his intuition might be mistaken and that I might not, after all, take to today's activity. His concern was compounded by weather; it was far from ideal for this, my first sail. Why was it so important to him that I like sailing anyway?
Several forces play significant roles in the movement of the human body through the water. The forces are drag, lift, gravity and buoyancy. Lift and drag are the main propulsive forces that are used by swimmers. Resistance, known as drag, can be broken into three main categories: frontal resistance, skin friction, and eddy resistance. The effect of buoyancy in swimming is best described by Archimedes’ principle: a body fully or partially submerged in a fluid is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid that is displaced by the body.1 This effectively negates any effects that gravity might have on a swimmer. The rare exception to this is a swimmer with very little body fat, and this is overcome by keeping the lungs inflated to a certain degree at all times.
There are three basic tools to help you swim better and learn good technique. o Fins allow you to concentrate on your arm action and body roll whilst doing a light but incredibly effective foot and leg
Many people think of scuba diving as just a swim in the water, but in reality it is a very exciting, dangerous, and potentially fatal sport and activity. There are many types of scuba diving, ranging from recreational to sport to career diving. Scuba Diving is just not a swim in the water, scuba requires certification, uses technical equipment, and there is a lot of risk involved with scuba diving.
The affects of swimming on disabled people’s bodies’ physically is colossal due to the fact that water provides support, stability, and has numerous healing mechanisms. According to aquatic therapist Stacy Bintzler, “Water has four main features that are not offered through land activity: buoyancy, resistance, support and hydrostatic pressure” which allows for simple movement to be less painful and easier in comparison to the same movements on land (Bintzler). Water’s main components aid in the following ways: buoyancy, reduces stress on joints; resistance, buil...
against the water and to move the hull higher. The force of the water against
There are several physics concepts that can be used to explain how sailboats function the way they do. These include Newton’s laws and vector subtraction. The physics behind sailing are dependent upon the position of the boat and the sail relative to the wind, yet all of the physics concepts at work at any given point in time during sailing will be the same. The first position (as well as the easiest to comprehend) is downwind sailing. This immediately involves Newton’s third law, which states “for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction”. This is because the sail will push back on the wind as they come in contact (action and reaction). This occurrence results in the smooth and comfortable motion of the boat in the direction of the wind, yet it will never be as quick at the wind (ie. wind decelerates, entire sailboat accelerates. Boat can never possibly achieve and sustain an...