Factors Influencing Coastal Processes
In this essay I aim to describe and explain factors affecting coastal
processes. I will focus and explore how waves, tides, winds and mass
movement processes can change the form of the coasts within our
lifetime. The three key questions I will focus on are:
* What are the energy and sediment inputs into the coastal system?
* What are the processes that erode coasts?
* How is sediment transported and deposited?
I will conclude by describing and explaining factors influencing
coastal processes and how they make up the South Dorset coast.
The littoral zone is a narrow zone between high and low water zones
where energy and sediment concentrate. The sediments on the coast are
sand, shingle and clay. The river, cliffs and sea are sources of
sediment inputs into the coastal system. (Fig. 1)
(Fig 1. Sediment inputs into the coastal system.)
The energy inputs include wind, waves and tidal currents. The wind
produces sand dunes on beaches with shallow offshore gradients; these
produce ecosystems, which help with plants that cope with lack of
nutrients and water etc. Sand dunes help absorb the pounding of high
waves and reduce over wash flooding in storms. Below is a diagram of
Studland Dunes and beach, showing the different parts of the beach (Fig.
2)
Fig. 2 Studland dunes and beach
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Winds create waves that ripple across the surface of lakes and seas
until they break on the shallowing bottom and crash into the shore. In
many areas, prevailing winds produce waves that consistently approach
the coast at oblique angles. Even the slightest angle between the land
and the waves will create currents that transport sediment along the
shore. These longshore currents are a primary agent of coastal
movement; they are a major cause of sand migration along barrier and
mainland beaches. (Fig 3)
Fig 3. Fistral Beach, Newquay, Cornwall UK
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Tides ebb and flood in response to the gravitational attraction of the
Investigation on Coastal Erosion In Porlock Bay Aims ---- Aim 1: To find out if beach material is moved across Porlock Bay by longshore drift. Aim 2: To find out which type of sea defense is best for Porlock bay. If L.S.D. (long shore drift) were taking place I would expect to find: a) Deposition at one end of the bay and against any abstractions such as groynes. b)
Investigating the Geographical Processes that are Affecting the Physical and Built Coastal Environment There are three geographical processes that are affecting the physical and built coastal environment, they are; erosion, deposition, and transportation. Erosion is the group of natural processes, including weathering, dissolution, abrasion, corrosion, and transportation, by which material is worn away from the earth’s surface, this is mainly caused by wind, running water, and waves breaking on the coast. Deposition is the depositing something or the laying down of matter by a natural process. Transportation is when sand is moved along the coast by long shore drift. At North Cronulla beach erosion is evident.
On average a given spot will experience two high tide and two low tides in a day. The tides are experienced due to the moon gravitational pull. The low tides are experienced when we are facing 90 and 180 degrees away from the moon. Then the high tides are found when we are facing the moon and when we are facing away from the moon.
This shows that it is eroded at one end more which is a sign of long
The whole island is in the shape of a giant square with white sandy beaches full of people sunbathing, swimming and fishing right on the shoreline. From the end of the hot pavement parking lot to shore of the beach is an ocean of soft white sand. The pearlescent white sand seems to know how to invade every nook and cranny almost as if it enjoys it. Walking around the beach on the fluffy whiteness surrounding the parking lot, the seagulls are fighting over scraps of food on the ground. “Sandy beach ecosystems provide invaluable services to humankind. Their functions have been exploited through history, with significant anthropogenic effects (Lucrezi, 2015)”. This white sandy beach is a beautiful refuge from the mundane grind of everyday life. The smell of the misty ocean air mixed with the sound of seagulls hovering above and kids playing is a tonic for the mind. The feel of the sand between their toes and the waves crashing over them as people swim in the water, or the jerk of a fishing pole when someone is catching a fish makes Fred Howard Park one of the best places to relax. Standing on the beach looking out on the water, people are kayaking and windsurfing. The lifeguards watching vigilantly in their bright red shirt and shorts, blowing their whistles when they see someone being unsafe. After a long day of swimming and laying around visitors head back over the soft white sand to the showers, in order to rinse off the menacing sand that clings to everything like a bad habit. Everyone rushes over the hot pavement burning their feet to reach their cars so they can put away their beach paraphernalia which is still covered in the white sand, nearly impossible to completely leave behind, so when they get home it serves as a reminder of where they were that
approximately tides and not at high or low water as would be the case at other
There are many different types of coasts that exist throughout the United States. The south shore of Long Island has a unique types of coast known as a barrier beach. Barrier beaches are long narrow land forms that are composed of sand and other lose sediments. These sediments are brought together by the actions of waves, currents and storm surges. Barrier beaches are subject to constant changes by the same forces. Sand is constantly eroded in one area an deposited in another. Barrier coasts are important for a number of reasons; they protect the mainland of Long Island from the open ocean and flooding during storms, for recreational use and the unique ecosystems which exist on barrier beaches.
They also look after the quality of coastal waters by watering down, sifting, and settling deposits, left-over nutrients and contaminants. They are highly productive ecosystems and provide habitats and act as nurseries for all manner of life.
a) physical and chemical changes related to tides, waves, currents, sea level and ice cap variations, upwelling, and salinity variations;
Coastal erosion is a growing problem along the Gulf Coast. Louisiana is one of the coastal states most affected by coastal erosion. Ninety percent of wetland loss in the nation occurs in Louisiana, losing 25-35 square miles per year. At that rate, Louisiana will lose 640,000 more acres by 2050. Many factors contribute to this land loss, such as rising sea levels, subsidence, hurricane storm surge, cold fronts, and human interference. Cold fronts and hurricanes can both have detrimental consequences on the coast of Louisiana (Zhang 2004) (Restore or Retreat 2012). This research shows whether cold fronts or hurricanes have a larger effect on coastal erosion. The researcher will describe how historical and current satellite imagery help in determining the changes in the Louisiana coast. Based on previous research, the researcher believes that hurricanes have more of an effect on coastal erosion than cold fronts due to the high winds and storm surge.
The Sun’s radiation heats the upper atmosphere, sending the energy toward the earth’s surface and finally mixes with the planet’s counter-rotational currents, creating jetstream flows. The winds flow over the ocean’s surface creating friction that spawns chops, pushing up the seas forming perfect bands of open ocean swell. Pushed on by gravitational forces, the swells speed away from the winds that they came from, moving across the deeps until they feel the drag of the shallows near the coast. As the swells rise up out of themselves, they peak, curling into the liquid dreams that we surfers ride (Kampton 4).
Globally coastal wetlands are disappearing at an alarming rate, the problem is most of society does not realize the value of these precious wetlands. Coastal wetlands provide an important role in the coastal ecosystem. “Coastal wetlands provide critical services such as absorbing energy from coastal storms, preserving shorelines, protecting human populations and infrastructure, supporting commercial seafood harvests, absorbing pollutants and serving as critical habitat for migratory bird populations”(Anonymous, 2011). Coastal wetlands are an economical asset as well as an environmental one.
The question that I will be answering for my coursework is which is best at protecting the Northumberland coastline – groynes or beach nourishment. I will be going to Blyth beach also I will be visiting Newbiggen beach I am investigating the Northumberland coastline as part of my geography coursework also because I live in the UK and I want to see how safe the people of the UK are with the safety of the coastline and its defences against coastal erosion. We will be visiting the Northumberland coastline on Thursday the 15th of May 2014.
Tides are common features of the ocean. Tides occur when large bodies water rise and fall, because of the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun. Spring tides are especially strong tides; in spite of the name they have nothing to do with the season spring. They occur when the Earth, the sun, and the moon are in a line. Spring tides occur during the full moon and the new moon. Neap tides are especially weak tides. They occur when the gravitational forces of the moon and the sun are perpendicular to one another. When water moves from side to side, it is called a current. Currents move warm and cold water to different parts of the ocean.
The problem with contaminated beaches will soon take effect on everyone. The main causes that pollution creates in the beaches are from heavy rainfall, natural disasters, and plant malfunctions. Government agencies cannot control the weather, but they can control what goes into the water. In the United States, the number one reason why beaches are closed down are due to contamination in the water that may be harmful and are left untreated. The arising problem with the beach is that the industries are producing toxic chemicals and tossing the unwanted waste into the ocean. Also, the public are recklessly throwing their trash out into the streets. A prime example to demonstrate this is, if someone was trying to throw a bottle into a street trashcan but missed, he/she is unlikely to pick up after himself/herself if no one was around to see it. This scenario causes pollution to the sidewalks. When mother nature disasters occur, these waste products will end up in the storm drains and into the sewage system. The overflow of debri from the cities can flow into the rivers and if not preserved, it can flow into the ocean. The rivers will then carry these human caused waste into t...